Wash, Dry, Pack

Drying: merino long johns, 

silk underwear, 

silk slip, 

cotton skirt, 

sleeveless tee

Draped wet laundry over a rack to dry. Then a moment of awareness: This clothing is the work of my hands.

Traveling today. Suitcase holds a handmade wardrobe.

Under It All There's Silk

Silk Underwear, 2012

I've a dear mother who is both loyal and critical. (It is criticism in a constructive vein, she'd insist.) She's worn a silk top (photo) since it was made for her and phoned to ask whether I'd sew her another. High praise indeed!

With its warmth and absorbency, silk is beneficial in winter. And when grey skies, shorter days and lower temperatures might lead to the doldrums, the sleek, airy luxury of silk provides elegant armor.

Sewing Outdoors

Sewing Outdoors

It may be prudent to keep a love of winter hushed. Grumbling about the cold is more customary. Secretly relish the cold and delight in a snowstorm feisty enough to transform city streets into cross country ski paths until snowplows appear. (With layers of clothing one is warm sprinting on skis. I've made silk long undershirts of late.)

Despite Brooklyn's magical qualities, I've a craving for nature. Was in Pennsylvania this month where there was a convergence of people close to the heart, a sewing machine, blue sky, bright sunlight, deer roaming in mini-herds and winter's energizing chill. In a borrowed winter coat sat on the porch and sewed, breathing deeply.

Brought mending on the plane. A bag made years ago is now repaired.

Garment Maintenance for Guys

Some photos from last night's Garment Maintenance for Guys. 

A couple of the gentlemen grew up in countries where custom sewing has been a way of life for centuries. Yet with the mass production of clothing in factories, they report the tradition is fading rapidly. Jonathan said that in Bangladesh, his country of origin, the change has taken place at hyper-speed; within the last ten years households have ceased to sew garments for all the members of the family.

Here are the guys, having taken up a needle and thread for the first time, learning to sew on buttons. The workshop covered a lot of ground! The gentlemen were already resembling tailors by the evening's end. 

Travels with Needle and Thread

The good folks over at Brooklyn Brainery have a wonderful space. Join me for Garment Maintenance for Guys on Monday, December 17th. Learn how to sew buttons on shirts and coats with the skills of a tailor.

Last night was at Fixer's Collective where a woman brought in a leather handbag she'd found. It was torn along one seam. Got her started with a whip stitch (a stitch that winds over a seam on the outside like the stripes on a barber shop pole). Then she took over with gusto! An inherent aspect of Fixer's Collective is that while "master fixers" are on hand to help figure out how to do repairs and mends, much of the work is done by the person who brings in their object. She was beaming when she left with a newly repaired bag!

Wore It Home!

Camisole in merino wool, 2011

Was cold in the studio yesterday. Over the summer I'd drafted a pattern for a camisole/undershirt. Having made a number of these in summer weight fabrics it was pretty simple to sew one in light, soft merino wool. There is shirring at the center and the fabric drapes away from the body at the waist. Wore it home!

Thoughts about this project are evolving. More about this to come. Am for now writing and drawing ideas.

(Ah, the photo looks less vivid than the actual setting. The walls ought to be lighter, etc.)

Bring on da Rain!

Raincoat & Hat: nylon with cotton lining
Photo: Beth Rudock

It was raining last week. Walking down the street, stood at the curb waiting for the light to change. "That's a big hat," said  a very little boy. His father, looking at me explained, "it's an umbrella hat!" It is!

It has been a challenge to give an impression of what it's like to really dress in a homemade wardrobe. Enter Beth Rudock, photographer. She's capturing the essence of the project.

In the Midst of So Many Projects!

Long Sleeve Tee: silk, 2011.

At 5.30 p.m. the sky was dark and rain was falling. After a day of sewing turned to a garment which had been waiting for completion. It required the resolution of a pattern calculation dilemma. Solved it! Excited anew. Coaxed myself to leave the studio by 7 with the promise: you'll come back tomorrow! 

While the pattern was put aside (mellowing for several weeks) worked on sample garments for classes and made a long sleeve tee with raglan sleeves in silk knit. (The Garment District is a dream resource for fabric.)

On the Road

Suitcase of Self-made Garments, 2011

In Grand Central station, board a train heading north. The Hudson line travels alongside the water. Beyond the city the view thorough the window transforms into a wide expanse of moving river. On the far bank stand masses of trees in lavish color. Have brought mending along and alternate between it and gazing out the window.

When sewing sometimes I listen to stories (Fresh Air, This American Life, the Moth) and music. This is song is both-- it's about sewing!
Coat of Many Colors by Dolly Parton

Bloomers Resurface

Wool bloomers (with lace), sweater. Dress, cotton  jersey.

A similar style of bloomers was worn by my grandmother. It might be her influence that initially drew me to make these.