Thursday, April 23, 2015

Handknit Dolman Sweater

Dolman Sweater (front)
What, winter at the end of April?!

It's cold enough to wear the dolman sleeve sweater I knitted as a teenager. Rediscovered it on a recent visit with my folks. It's teal with blocks of maroon and sky blue mohair...kind of itchy. Also, it's boxy in that late 80's way. Heck though, due to less wear it looks pristine.
Dolman Sweater (back)

Mohair Knit Sweater,
Photo: Robert Lucy, 2015




Saturday, April 18, 2015

Parapet: the Edge of Style

Linen Shift, Pair of Silk Stays, Bustle Skirt
Photograph: Robert Lucy, 2015
From the wardrobe I've made I find myself gravitating toward certain garments. This skirt and the white linen shift worn with it are a semi-uniform. The silk covered corset/ pair of stays is newly completed.

The first skirt of this design was paired with a slip. The next incorporated a lining. This version has a deep ruffle added to the lining's lower edge, widening the circle of the hemline when the skirt is worn. An additional development was to come...

A long skirt amplifies movement and cozily blankets one's legs when one is seated. Nevertheless climbing up and down subway stairs required lifting this long skirt's hem--graceful or a bit of a nuisance depending upon whether or not my hands were already full. (In tandem with living in a pedestrian city with fluid public transportation is the tendency to tote along a day's worth of provisions, pack-mule-like.) It's awkward to raise the skirt an inch or two off the ground when carrying packages. Eventually solved the dilemma: bustled the skirt!

Detail: Ribbon Tie at Front Shoulder
Photograph: Robert Lucy, 2015
The pair of stays (i.e. corset) evolved from a previously made pair. Recently had modified the original in ways that made it unexpectedly comfortable and wonderful to wear. Those adaptations are present in this pair. Seen here is the marine blue silk taffeta exterior. But this pair is reversible! There's scarlet silk taffeta on the other side. It's structure is comprised of eighteen steel bones inserted into channels in a muslin core. There are thirty hand sewn eyelets. At the most rapid each eyelet took about 10-15 minutes to sew. Many subway journeys were spent sewing eyelets and hand-stitching the edge binding over the course of three months. Decided to modernize and grommet the front lacing holes of which there are twenty-two. Wearing this I feel utterly myself.

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Cut from the Same Cloth

Long Johns, Bloomers, Long Sleeve Tee, Socks. Merino Wool.
Muslin is a woven cotton cloth. Unbleached it is the color of pale sand. Available in several weights, it is frequently used for creating a prototype of a garment, also called a muslin.

Details are worked out in the muslin. This requires that one use material with properties similar to the fabric in which the garment will ultimately be made, such as elasticity and weight.

A few years ago found pale rose, shallow ribbed merino wool at an excellent price. Bought yards of it. It has served as a muslin for many projects to be sewn in a knit fabric. Note similarities between the long sleeve tee pictured here and in the post below? The construction of the cuffs, the cut of the armsyce (where the sleeve meets the body) as well as the finishing details for the neckline and hem were developed in this fabric. Soft, warm and with the natural stretch of wool jersey it's also ideal for long underwear. It's a wardrobe staple!

Cut from the same cloth: long johns, bloomers, a long-sleeve tee [wearing it as I write] and heck, socks.

Monday, February 16, 2015

Swiss Cheese Tee: The Pleasures of the Threadbare

Swiss Tee. Wool jersey and velvet, 2015
Thought about photographing clothing I've worn to bits like teddy bears loved threadbare. Put one tee shirt on the dressform to photograph it. It looked more swiss-cheese than shirt.

Mending only goes so far; there have to be fibers strong enough to support the mend. Recently labeled a small bin: Clothing in Retirement.

For a new tee began with an idea, shaping the pieces without bothering to make a paper pattern first.  Based the sleeves and the U-sweep neckline on a 'retired' shirt. Cut out the front, the back and sleeves in lightweight rose wool jersey. It had the glimmer of a swift project: a tee that could be worn to dinner that evening!

The process of making a garment refuses to be hastened. It's very odd. Even with well-honed skills and practice it is almost as though there's a muse who requires respectful devotion. "Oh, I will just whip this out," is invariably an approach that leads to the opposite results. It's uncanny.

Beautiful back drape
At the end of the day there were perplexing puzzles to solve about the design. Doubts had arisen. Had dinner with friends. (How good to be out and about!) The next day the road blocks were gone. Gathered the sleeve where it meets the shoulder, finished the neckline with pale chiffon. Decided upon a couple modifications. Cut a second version from dark purple wool (shown here). The neckline is bound with velvet, which does in fact glimmer.

All snowflakes are different. What if all tees were unique?





Saturday, January 31, 2015

The Conscientious Consumer

Announcing a new video!

We're surrounded literally and figuratively by stitched material: the sheets we sleep between, the sofas we sit upon, the clothing we wear. The goal of this video is to share some knowledge with you, giving you the ability to make more considered choices when in the market for sewn goods.



How can you tell whether the bed linens you are buying are well made?
Verysweetlife shows some details to look for before you make a purchase.

Friday, January 23, 2015

Leather and Rhinestones

Cummerbund. Leather with metal/rhinestone ornament, 2015
A cummerbund belt. Made to wrap around the back and cross over the front panel, the tapered ends are secured on either side of the torso. Love a low-riding belt!

The blouse is (rumpled) linen. The leggings, wool knit. Warm and sleek, am wearing them often this winter.  Glad to have made two pairs. When it works, it works!

This making all I wear... have been thinking about the ease of buying, of finding a beautiful item to acquire. The process of imagining, planning, experimenting and making has become second nature. I'm a stronger designer as a result.

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Playground Fez

Fez Hats for Kids, 2015
Just the thing for the playground: a dragon fez.

Was making holiday gifts, a trio of hats for three kids. The first one was made of fairly thin red fleece. Being a little too floppy it was put aside. Then one very cold night when it was chilly even under the covers I reached for that fleece fez. It was soft and added a little warmth, plus wearing a hat is soothing. Really, it has a subtle calming effect. Since then on nights when it's chilly indoors I'm wearing a version of one of these (without the dragon, admittedly). Think I'll put it on now!

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Foundations

Letters from a Single Year Lived Beautifully
In a sort of inverse to spring cleaning, am shedding leaves (of paper) and mulching (metaphorically) garments as autumn descends.

Have treasured letters from lengthy correspondences with friends near and far. Prior to the ease of email the arrival in the post of an airmail envelope and a foreign stamp generated excitement and warmth. Leaves of paper were handwritten then folded, traveled a distance to where they were unfolded and the words slurped up. Glorious.

Undeniably there is ample room in a lifetime for a multitude of friendships. These collected letters are cobblestones along the path. A celebratory bonfire is more appropriate than a dustbin.

Bra in Blush Lace (with black straps), 2014
There is always room for metamorphosis in attire. The season of layering has begun. Am in the mood for that which is...
Sparkling.
Soignée. 
Elegant.
These qualities in mind, have discarded some clothing and made more lingerie.

It is early morning. The pleasant fragrance of toast from a neighboring apartment wafts in. Birds that have yet to migrate are chirping in a community of song. It is a less riotous sound than a summer morning brings. Bra and birdsongs, the foundations of a day?

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Receptive to Material

Sewing, 2014
Fabrics made from natural fibers have distinct properties (e.g. density, surface texture, friction, weight, suppleness, crispness...). These determine how best to cut pattern pieces from a material, the type of sewing needle and pins to use, even the way to press the seams. It's a collaborative process--working attuned to the cloth.

In between other projects have bit by bit made a linen shift to wear as a slip. This is a fabric I love. Rarely use pins when working with linen. In the photo my right index finger is tucking under a narrow edge of the linen while my left hand keeps the material aligned as it passes under the sewing needle. A foot on the pedal powers the motor simultaneously. There's a harmony to it.

Lately it's primarily silk taffeta on the cutting and sewing tables. This material! It is magnificent. Taffeta has the subtle sheen of the surface of a lake at dusk. It is so sculptural one could make origami with it. Working with silk taffeta is like entering an elegant home whose hostess' inviting manner makes one at ease in the sumptuous surroundings. A lot of metaphors for one fabric. Honestly, it's poetic stuff.

Synthetic fibers have advantages, of course! Though they aren't quite penicillin, Lycra and its kin have allowed clothing to become softer, more durable and to be adapted to different climate conditions and provide simpler sizing [applauding: stretch].

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Always Room for a Hat

Sun Hat
Scalloped Hem Jacket
Pirate Pants
Wrap Belt
Lace-edged Blouse

Photograph: Robert Lucy
Labor Day Weekend. Summer's last hurrah has been a generous wave of heat and humidity.

Autumn is on the way.

A sun hat, sandals and lightweight linen (blouse, pants). A jacket to usher in the season.

A hat hook on the exterior of a building?! (A matter of perspective.)