Parapet: the Edge of Style

Linen Shift, Pair of Silk Stays, Bustle Skirt
Photograph: Robert Lucy, 2015

From the wardrobe I've made I find myself gravitating toward certain garments. This skirt and the white linen shift worn with it are a semi-uniform. The silk covered corset/ pair of stays is newly completed.

The first skirt of this design was paired with a slip. The next incorporated a lining. This version has a deep ruffle added to the lining's lower edge, widening the circle of the hemline when the skirt is worn. An additional development was to come...

A long skirt amplifies movement and cozily blankets one's legs when one is seated. Nevertheless climbing up and down subway stairs required lifting this long skirt's hem--graceful or a bit of a nuisance depending upon whether or not my hands were already full. (In tandem with living in a pedestrian city with fluid public transportation is the tendency to tote along a day's worth of provisions, pack-mule-like.) It's awkward to raise the skirt an inch or two off the ground when carrying packages. Eventually solved the dilemma: bustled the skirt!

Detail: Ribbon Tie at Front Shoulder
Photograph: Robert Lucy, 2015

The pair of stays (i.e. corset) evolved from a previously made pair. Recently had modified the original in ways that made it unexpectedly comfortable and wonderful to wear. Those adaptations are present in this pair. Seen here is the marine blue silk taffeta exterior. But this pair is reversible! There's scarlet silk taffeta on the other side. It's structure is comprised of eighteen steel bones inserted into channels in a muslin core. There are thirty hand sewn eyelets. At the most rapid each eyelet took about 10-15 minutes to sew. Many subway journeys were spent sewing eyelets and hand-stitching the edge binding over the course of three months. Decided to modernize and grommet the front lacing holes of which there are twenty-two. Wearing this I feel utterly myself.

Cut from the Same Cloth

Long Johns, Bloomers, Long Sleeve Tee, Socks. Merino Wool.

Muslin is a woven cotton cloth. Unbleached it is the color of pale sand. Available in several weights, it is frequently used for creating a prototype of a garment, also called a muslin.

Details are worked out in the muslin. This requires that one use material with properties similar to the fabric in which the garment will ultimately be made, such as elasticity and weight.

A few years ago found pale rose, shallow ribbed merino wool at an excellent price. Bought yards of it. It has served as a muslin for many projects to be sewn in a knit fabric. Note similarities between the long sleeve tee pictured here and in the post below? The construction of the cuffs, the cut of the armsyce (where the sleeve meets the body) as well as the finishing details for the neckline and hem were developed in this fabric. Soft, warm and with the natural stretch of wool jersey it's also ideal for long underwear. It's a wardrobe staple!

Cut from the same cloth: long johns, bloomers, a long-sleeve tee [wearing it as I write] and heck, socks.

Foundations

Letters from a Single Year Lived Beautifully

In a sort of inverse to spring cleaning, am shedding leaves (of paper) and mulching (metaphorically) garments as autumn descends.

Have treasured letters from lengthy correspondences with friends near and far. Prior to the ease of email the arrival in the post of an airmail envelope and a foreign stamp generated excitement and warmth. Leaves of paper were handwritten then folded, traveled a distance to where they were unfolded and the words slurped up. Glorious.

Undeniably there is ample room in a lifetime for a multitude of friendships. These collected letters are cobblestones along the path. A celebratory bonfire is more appropriate than a dustbin.

Bra in Blush Lace (with black straps), 2014

There is always room for metamorphosis in attire. The season of layering has begun. Am in the mood for that which is...

Sparkling.

Soignée. 

Elegant.

These qualities in mind, have discarded some clothing and made more lingerie.

It is early morning. The pleasant fragrance of toast from a neighboring apartment wafts in. Birds that have yet to migrate are chirping in a community of song. It is a less riotous sound than a summer morning brings. Bra and birdsongs, the foundations of a day?

Lingerie and Lemonade

Moonstone Lace Lingerie. (Nylon, cotton) 2014

Fancied new lingerie. Lace. Was headed to the Garment District.

En route popped into a textile trade show. Looked at neatly displayed samples of lace in a manufacturer's booth. Chatted with the sales representative (about laundering the lace, its elasticity). The three day expo was closing. She and her colleagues had hundreds of samples to pack. She spontaneously offered that I should take samples of the lace to try. Thought about which pieces would be useful. Chose a swatch of wide white galloon lace. (Galloon lace has a decorative scalloped border along the top and bottom edges.) There was a black piece too--both with stretch. Perfect for lingerie!

Barely any scrap of white lace remained once it had been patterned, cut and sewn. Combined the black lace with cotton for a different style.

Onyx Lace Lingerie. (Nylon, cotton) 2014

Buying has its merits, yet there's an intangible joy in making. With a desire to share the benefits was practically singing, "I want to teach the world to sew...(tra-la)."

Yesterday passed by a stoop sale. A seven year old boy was pleading with his mother (who was selling the wares) to let him go to the corner deli to buy lemonade. She was explaining to him that he was too young to go on his own.

An hour later walked by the stoop sale on the way home. The boy was drinking lemonade from bottle with a straw. He was smiling widely, his grin extending on both sides of the straw. His mother had relented. To the boy that lemonade must have tasted better than any other. It was flavored with independence. To make what one wears has a similar essence.


(The background in the photos? Fuchsia fabric draped over the ironing board.)

Summer in Winter

1920's Singlet. Wool/Nylon, 2014.

To ward off the snowy chill there is wool, silk, and...dancing (the perfect antidote to winter's inducement to hibernate). Wore multiple layers for the journey to a party on Sunday night. Then, on the dance floor, layers were shed. It was among the pleasures for all who, in staunch denial of the long darkness and deep freeze of a Sunday night mid-January, had come to revel. Revealed under coats swiftly tossed aside were tee shirts, singlets and partially unbuttoned shirts. Summer attire. Bodies in motion swayed and stomped to the beat in boots that had recently trudged through the snow. 

Wore a soft wool singlet with a low scoop neck. Its material and style are reminiscent of a 1920's bathing costume. The pattern was easy to design and assembly was quick--wool absorbs stitches like a thirsty sponge. Yum. 

It took much longer to make a silk jersey camisole with a minimalist design (photo below). It has wide straps which taper as they meet the front and back panels and a tiny scalloped hem. As soon as it was finished (two weeks ago) wanted to wear it every day. Developed the pattern a little further, slimming the width of the straps, repositioning where they attach to the back, raising the height under the arm and narrowing the front panel. Then, with these modifications, sewed another camisole. The silk is warm and alluringly fluid along the body's surface. ("What?" asks the invaluable proofreader, "fluid"? Am explaining when she confesses that she happens to be wearing the silk long undershirt I'd sent her last year. "Comfortable" she says softly, "and luxurious.")

Wrapped again in layers left the party and headed home. Was warm for hours.... It was the wool, the dancing, the happiness.

Camisole with Scalloped Hem. Silk, 2014.

Camisole. Silk, 2014.

Corset Detail

Detail: Corset Back

A Victorian corset. Gradually almost all the overhead lights in this lovely brownstone flat ceased to function. Practically a Victorian night scene: hand-stitching the corset binding by lamplight, wearing a long chemise and a woolen shawl. Amused.

The looser a garment, the more one-size-fits-all a pattern is. A corset is the antithesis of a muumuu! It's hyper-individualized according to measurements. (After a day of wearing a corset donning a muumuu is appealing.)

Adventures in Underwear

7 pairs of underwear: silk, cotton, rayon, elastic

Began by making hats. Then underwear. Now there's a mini-stack of underwear in the closet and a hall tree with hats by the front door.

It is happiness-inducing to begin getting dressed each day with handmade underwear!

These are from different years--the deep purple from the initial year, fuschia made last year and printed silk jersey undies assembled this winter using fabric salvaged from cutting long underwear tops.

(Tend to write much more before editing down to the essentials. Ah, the many philosophical musings about self-reliance in draft form!)

Under It All There's Silk

Silk Underwear, 2012

I've a dear mother who is both loyal and critical. (It is criticism in a constructive vein, she'd insist.) She's worn a silk top (photo, with matching undies) since it was made for her and phoned to ask whether I'd sew her another. High praise indeed!

With its warmth and absorbency, silk is beneficial in winter. And when grey skies, shorter days and lower temperatures might lead to the doldrums, the sleek, airy luxury of silk provides elegant armor.

Bloomers Resurface

Wool bloomers (with lace), sweater. Dress, cotton  jersey.

A similar style of bloomers was worn by my grandmother. It might be her influence that initially drew me to make these.

Laundry Gets Done

The Soak: lingerie

There is the adage about public/laundry. Forgive me.

The local laundry is a few blocks away. The routine: fill a sack and walk with arms wrapped around the bundle. After the wash cycle, bring (lug!) the damp collection home and drape it over drying racks. It has a satisfying appearance, like a table set with a meal one has made.


Some lingerie gets washed by hand.

Knickers

detail: Merino wool/cotton lace, 2010

Pioneer theme continues. A chill wind is here. Made knickers, a design fitting the climate. I put them on as soon as the threads were clipped.

Making a garment involves engineering. Even the simplest aspects go awry when making haste. Working with fabric and thread involves a relationship of respect. They are alive. Purple prose to say. Nevertheless, it's true.

Knickers: Cotton w/ crochet trim, 2010

Some projects involve weeks of wondering, planning, experimenting and solving. Have come to understand for balance, working on simpler garments is satisfying.

The Modern Garter

Garter: cotton/lycra, nylon, elastic

Why did garters go out of fashion? Tights, which replace a garter and stockings, are aptly named.

The solution: modernize! Plush garters are sewn to a band of gentle lace and soft jersey with an adjustable hook & eye closure. Here is a modern garter belt. The little bow in the front was a last minute consideration. It is a small detail yet it seemed to balance the design.

Camisole Project...continued

Camisole with lace inset. Cotton/lycra, 2010

Camisole and knickers. Cotton/lycra, 2010

Matching set.

The Camisole

Camisole in cotton with lycra, 2010

The handmade wardrobe needed a camisole. Gathers at the center front for shape. Cross the back straps.

Softest Lingerie

Lingerie set: Cotton/lycra, 2009

As much cotton as possible--cotton thread (cotton fibers spun over a polyester core), cotton crochet lace and soft, soft, soft cotton jersey fabric with a little lycra for resilient stretch.

After sewing these, onto making a silk jersey set. How nice to wear everything handmade. Must get to work!